Maine Two foot layout plans on Marty McGuirk’s blog

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Marty McGuirk’s blog is mainly about his HO gauge Central Vermont layout, but like many blogs there are occasional diversions such as what other layouts might fit the space or his interests.

Recently, Marty has found (and published) a plan drawn up by Iain Rice from a long time ago featuring a Maine Two Foot style layout based on the proposed “Franklin and Somerset” extension to the Franklin and Megantic line. Also included is some correspondence from the time – take a look at http://centralvermontrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/maine-two-foot-adventure.html

Some time ago Marty published a plan based on the WW&FR that was drawn up by Bernie Kempinski for Marty’s space. http://centralvermontrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/missed-opportunities-what-might-have.html

Enjoy if you visit, and we look forward to hearing from anyone who is tempted to build either of these layouts,

Terry & Co.

Tin roofs – a temporary posting

MaineOn2 FAQ – Tin Roofs extract from Equipment file    

Last Updates 13-12-2012; 09-02-2013;  published 28-05-2014

This post will present the information that was previously published on the web based FAQ’s, with some updates as noted. This extract has been prepared quickly to support a thread on the Yahoo! group, and may have “quirks”………..let us know if you find any problems. 

 Roof Coverings – Generic questions

Application of tin to roof

Modeling Tin Roof

What is Red lead?

Modeling Red Lead

 

Tin Sheet material

The metal panels were probably not pure tin, but “terne” which is tin-plated steel. When the tin plating wore off, the underlying steel would rust. See recent photos of the Strong creamery for a good example of this phenomenon. Note that the roof on that building is 97 years old and has been painted a few times. Wesley Ewell December 2012.

There are three possible candidates for the tin sheet material in a historical context, tin coated steel, zinc coated steel and terne plate. Terne plate was sheet steel coated with a lead/tin mix. Modern research has shown that the lead/tin ratio varied widely, and that contemporary accounts at the time of initial building of the Maine Two Footers and their rolling stock did not distinguish between tin coated steel, zinc coated steel and terne plate.

Based on a report from Gary Kohler that the underside of a piece of boxcar roof in his collection “is as bright as the day it was made” suggests that it was made from what we would now classify as tin coated steel, as both zinc coated steel and terne plate would go dull as they aged. Terry Smith 09 February 2013.

Bob Troup has mentioned 30 and 32 gauge in a posting he made about tin roofs that he has seen while refurbishing cars at the SR&RL Museum. Depending upon the material and the exact gauge scale referred to (unspecified in the posts) the actual thickness of the tin sheet material could range from around .008 inches to around .013 inches. These seem low/thin to me, but an actual measurement would be valuable. Terry Smith, posted to MaineOn2 group 15 December 2012. Added to FAQ’s  09 February 2013.

Tin sheet comments: 

The common tin size was 14″ x 20″ with 5/16″ seams bent over, interlocked with the adjoining sheets, and soldered (flat seam soldered).  As each sheet was applied it was either tacked through the seam (Laconia), or a tin strip hooked into the seam which was in turn tacked to the roof (Portland Co.).  Roof edges were tacked to the trim or weather board every inch.  On passenger cars this is not visible because a drip strip was soldered over these tacks (actually formed to a mini gutter over the platforms).  Yes, all tin roofs were on a steel substrate, 30 gauge – perhaps 32.  Forming compound curves on passenger car corners is a bear particularly if the steel has too much temper.  You can roll the sheets to form a compound curve, then at the very corners bend a “hospital corner” just as you would on a bed sheet and hammer it until it lays down the way you want it – tack in place and solder to hide.

 But, SRRL Box 155 had a mix of 14×20 and 20×28 sheets with a manufacturer’s stamp that dates to its original build date. Portland Co. ran out of one size of tin perhaps???

 Laconia coaches were, and are, definitely tin. The Lower portion of roof is 14 x 20 5/8 sheets while top of clerestory is the conventional 14×20. 

 Historically, tin roofing was sold by the basebox = 118 sheets of 14×20 tin.  For roofing tin, the plating was 4 – 5 lbs per basebox.  They still talk about the plating in terms of lbs/basebox even though it is only sold on rolls now.  Now it is all electroplated to about 0.25 lb/basebox which is not even close to adequate for roofing.  The original process was a dipped plating and the practical dip tank held a 14×20 sheet.  Galvanized material took over for roofing, but is not solderable once the zinc oxide layer forms.

 All of the tin comments are based on my experiences re-roofing boxcar 155 (completed) and SRRR Coach 5 (in process), including careful measurements before I started.

 Bob Troup, Secretary, SR&RL RR

 

 

 

Presented here is a lengthy discussion about the application of tin roof material used and what color it was painted.  There is a misconception that it was canvas or tarpaper.  With only a few exceptions, all equipment freight, passenger, and locomotives were roofed with tin sheeting. For this reason I have included much of the discussion for your background information.

SR&RL used 18”x27” panels

B&SR used 18”x18” panels

Though some Maine Two-Foot cars had smaller panels as well.  It depends on the car and even the era modeled for any one car. Jeff Bissonnette

By the end of operations, the tin roofs on Maine two-foot freight cars were a dark brown rust color because... their red lead paint jobs were not maintained and the tin rusted!  This is abundantly evident in the Bridgton & Harrison DVD available from Gary. Chris McChesney

Roof walk boards were left unpainted.  Painted wood and rain lead to slippery conditions.  Wet, raw wood weathered with raised grain is much safer for a brakeman to walk on... especially when a train is in motion. Chris McChesney   A later posting indicated this is not always true.

Exceptions

 

SR&RL 6/KC 4/WW&F 9 with a repair-applied canvas roof painted black

 

At least one passenger car was rebuilt using canvas — note rebuilt. Although the MEC RPO 6 may have been built with a canvas roof. It would still be red. G Kohler HOn30 response

The following are edited discussions that occurred on the various two foot lists.

Application of tin roof

Don't run for the hills... the point is that the vast majority of Maine two-foot equipment had tin roofs. Some have tried to argue/"speculate"/justify whatever... that equipment had "tarpaper" or some other treatment. The bottom line is that all of the surviving equipment (that wasn't Edavillized or covered with asphalt roofing material at Phillips) still have their original tin roofs. This is a testament to both the longevity of the material and the reason why it was chosen over other roofing materials in the first place.  Chris McChesney

B&SR

My own observations (Bridgton boxcars) are that the “central” or longitudinal seam appears to be much more obvious than the crossways seams.  I don’t know if this is because of different seam constructions or simply a trick of the light.  Panels appear to be square, and sized 18″ x 18″.   Terry Smith

SR&RL

My archive indicates that the SR&RL MEC built boxcars had 18″ x 27″ panels.  Three rows per roof side with a narrow cap strip on the roof peak.  Jeff Bissonnette

Photo supplied by Jeff Bissonnette

Q

 WW&FR Boxcar Tin roofs 

An off-board discussion has led me to look into the question of how boxcar tin roofs were laid, and what the pattern of seams seen should be. The revised edition of Jones and Register’s “Two Feet to Tidewater” shows a picture on page 217 of the Whitefield wreck, taken from the top of boxcar 509. The picture in revised edition not as clear as in original copy, but shows two longitudinal seams on one roof panel (ie half the total car width) and it appears that the transverse seams are quite close together on either side of the longitudinal seams, (ie not staggered by half the panel length as is suggested by the B&SR practise). On page 368 there is a bill of materials for an order of 10 boxcars, which turn out to be 30 foot cars numbered in the series 65 to 74 built by the Portland Company. The bill shows “Tin to cover 2200 sq ft of roofing. 133 sheets to one car. 112 sheets in box” Order shows 12 boxes Tin 14″ x 20″.” Doing some figuring equating the area of each sheet with the total area specified shows that the seams used 5/8″ material from each of the four sides of the piece of tin, making the laid panel clear size 12 ¾ ” x 18 ¾” separated by 5/8″ seams if single lapped. The evidence from the picture of the Whitefield wreck suggests that this car (if it used the same size tin sheet) had the sheets laid with the long dimension of the sheet laid lengthways along the car, and that the transverse seams were only a couple of inches out of line across the car. In contrast, a picture of car 502 on its side on page 45 of Kohler and McChesney “Narrow Gauge in the Sheepscot Valley” volume IV appears to show only one longitudinal seam along the lower roof half, and the individual panels appear narrower along the length of the car compared to the width (making due allowances for the relative angles), and the transverse seams appear to staggered by half a width in the two rows. This pattern could occur if the sheets are laid with the long dimension of the sheet across the car roof with the shorter dimension along the car roof. The half panel staggering is also seen in the lower picture on page 48 of the same book. Some of the pictures could be interpreted differently, and often the detail is lost in highlights etc. If anybody has other (and better) pictures and/or alternative interpretations then please post a reply. Looks like any Wiscasset modeller who wants to model tin roofs is going to have fun!

Terry Smith

Question

Do you know how were the sheets fixed at the "eaves", were they simply nailed to the edge of the roof boards or were they "secret nailed" by hanging the tin sheet down, nailing and then folding the sheet up and over the nails (forming a drip edge)?

And were the roof walk supports nailed over and through the tin sheet? Terry Smith

Answer so far, I'm sorry but I can't help much with this.  The cars I've seen were nailed on the edges with about a 1" over the eave,  but it could have been repairs and not original.  I never got a good look at the roof walk supports.  

The pieces have a lip on one side and the top. They are nailed at the edges. The next piece is applied over the nails and then the lip of the first piece is bent over the seam, covering the nails. Finally a bead of solder is run into the seam.   The porch roofs on my 1932 house are done the same way and the seams are still as tight as the seams in a tin can. Jim Pasquill

Observation  Tin roofs hold up better on a building then on a car. The car begins to flex during movement as it loosens with age. This cracks the solder seals. The result is bad roof leaks — a problem we are fighting currently at the wide-gauge East Broad Top.  Lee Rainey

Question

If the size ordered was 18"x27", was the final panel size smaller by an inch in each direction when the roof was installed and the seams overlapped?  Or was the 18"x27" the final dimension? Jim Providenza

Answer – still waiting

 Simulating tin roofs on models

Gary Kohler came up with a good way to do this, and I modified it some to make it a little more convenient (IMO) for modeling.  Gary suggested Mylar, but I switched to Evergreen 0.005" thick styrene sheet.  What to do is simple. 

I laid out the 18" and 27" divisions on the styrene using a soft pencil.  Then place the sheet of styrene over a sheet of basswood.  Using some sort of ball ended scriber (ball point pen, or a rounded off scriber), "draw" the panels into the styrene using light pressure.  The basswood sheet underneath supports the material, but still allows the scriber to force a fine line into the styrene.  The last step is to heavily scribe the roof peak into the sheet so that the "tin roof" can be bent to match the pitch of the car roof.  Use ACC or epoxy to glue to the car roof, and once dry, trim off the excess. This technique works well for HOn2/n30, but looks especially good for Sn2 cars.  If you're not crazy about using styrene, craft stores carry small rolls of 0.002" thick copper sheets that would work just as well, maybe better.  The problem with aluminum foil is that it is so thin and is easily torn or distorted. Another method is to scribe the panel pattern onto an existing resin or styrene car roof, then apply aluminum tape (used for duct work) over the entire surface.  Burnish with a soft stick or "Q"-tip and it gives a really nice effect.  You can even carefully trim the material so it can be bent over the edges, just like the prototype cars. A recent communication from a museum (think it was Sandy River) had a report that the superintendent had ordered tin sheets 18" x 27" to re-roof something. Yes, M2FM had an article years ago that said that they were roughly 18" x 27" panels.  Though some Maine Two-Foot cars had smaller panels as well.  It depends on the car and even the era modeled for any one car. Jeff Bissonnette 

 

In 2006, there was a flurry of postings which reported what various modellers were doing or suggestions to use for representing metal seamed roofs;- 

Bill Kerr: I do not use foil. I build in styrene, so I use .010” x .020” styrene strips to simulate the seams. After gluing down, I sand the strips down to almost nothing. Elliott Thomas suggests: Try the silver tape used in ductwork (not duct tape!) It is thin, and goes on easily. It will take paint and is available at many larger hardware stores.

Doug Rowe adds: I have read that some folks use the aluminium tape that air conditioning & furnace repairmen use to seal ducts- not “Duct Tape.” This stuff is like aluminium foil with a sticky back, and comes in rolls. 

Keith Gutshall: I use the foil disposable cookware from the supermarket. The foil is thicker than the rolls and tools very good. The cookie sheet yields the most flat stuff to work with. Goo or a similar contact glue would work best, because a flexible glue seems to work best with the metal and the wood.

Terry Smith: I use two methods, either a styrene roof panel and then add chart tape for seams, and use paint applied by brush to soften the hard edge and as extra “glue” or I have used the same panel as a master, adding the roof walk supports, and then casting urethane complete roof sections using an RTV silicone rubber mould. I have heard of using paint or varnish as a fixative for metal foils in plastic kit building.

In June 2007 Trevor Marshall referenced the use of “embossing foils”, which he then cut into individual pieces and glued to the sub-roof to produce overlapping seams.  

Terry Smith then started using the same materials, (ArtEmboss by Amaco, in particular #50068T; light aluminium) to produce an embossed half roof panel which he then copied in urethane resin using RTV Silicone Rubber moulds for his own B&SR boxcars.

Then in 2010/2012 John Rogers wrote: I use stained glass copper foil with an adhesive backing in the 3/8” width size, cut to length. It works great. Apply it to wood that has been sealed with two coats of clear brushing lacquer and it will adhere very well. After it is on, I put a coat of brushing lacquer over the copper to help keep it from peeling up at the edges. Terry Smith 9 Feb 2013

 

What is red lead?

A number of correspondents (including Wes Ewell and Robert Schlechter) have confirmed that standard practice was to coat the tin seamed roof with a preparation referred to as “red lead”, and indicated that this preparation was more than likely to have been mixed up on site from a paint base (boiled linseed oil?), binders and pigment (the red lead itself). Red lead is the common name for the mixed oxide of lead (Pb3O4) which in its pure state is a bright almost virulent orange colour. When mixed as a paint locally, the correspondents have indicated that colour can appear as anything from orange through to brown, and it has been described as “fugitive” ie rapidly changing. Terry Smith 9 Feb 2013

By the end of operations, the tin roofs on Maine two-foot freight cars were a dark brown rust color because... their red paint jobs were not maintained and the tin rusted!  This is abundantly evident in the Bridgton & Harrison DVD  available from Gary Kohler. There are a couple of shots taken from the roofs of boxcars that will provide perfect color tone and weathering information. Chris McChesney

Question – what color for red lead?

I am a scenic painter in the theater and majored in historic paint formulas of the early period of electric light.  Red lead is a color that is all over the board. It ranges from flame oranges to brown.  The color was made by a couple of different methods each resulting in a vast array of hues.  Add to this variation that red lead-minium was harshly affected by acrid coal smoke it is almost impossible to speculate on a correct red.  UV rays seriously affected the color as it aged and a painted piece could have many variations of the same pot color.  Add again the fact that lead and tin may have been mismatched as finish coat and substrate a wide variety of colors could appear. 

What am I really saying?  Red lead was not a set formula but a purpose made color which changed from pot to pot and from day to day in use. Variations in modeling will present the railroad in everyday use.  Unless we all agree to model a specific moment in time we can all have red roofs that are "correct".

If some one has a sample, a very close color match could be calculated and we could discuss it using a Munsell number, giving us all access to viewing a matched sample then choosing our own shade of red. Brian Goodman

Answer As far as "What is true "Red Lead?" that's like asking to correctly identify/match "Barn red."  The best you can do is compare what few color photos we have to black and white images and try to draw some  logical conclusions.  Gary and I have been collecting samples and analyzing Maine 2-foot colors (and trying to match them in our models) for years.  If you really want to see and judge colors for yourself, buy one of Gary's color CD's.  My favorite is the "Bridgton & Harrison Ry. Video and Photos from 1939-1941."  In a previous post, someone erroneously used the word "colorized" to describe the images.  Make no mistake, the color in this DVD not colorized like a painted postcard.  The color is from real color slides taken by a railfan in the early '40s.  Gary purchased (at significant expense) the original slides from the friend of the deceased photographer.   The B&H slides are the best color Maine two-foot images we have ever seen.  Period.  There is no "shifting" or contrast that occurs with copy slides.  These aren't copy slides and Gary hasn't run them through Photoshop or anything goofy like that (the naysayers need to give it a rest).  So, If you want to see the wide range of reds you described (and excellent examples of weathering)... heck if you want to see the best real 2-foot color period, get a copy.  No one will have to speculate about UV, coal acridity, chemical reactions with the tin substrate etc. etc. anymore.  Chris McChesney

Answer If you review your Sandy River & Rangeley Lakes RR Museum newsletters you will find a series of articles about the stripping of the Sandy River/SR&RL Laconia passenger car in preparation for restoration.  In the article it states that the ORIGINAL color of the paint applied to the TIN roof of the coach was found!  It survived because it was in a protected location.  The article states that this color is best matched to "Red Lead."  Red Lead is similar to the SR&RL "Freight Car Red" but is absolutely flat.  This red is not like Floquil's "Boxcar Red". Floquil's boxcar red is way too brown and is a match for D&RGW's boxcar red.  I use Floquil's "Oxide Red" (sometimes cut with white for older cars) for roofs. Also in the Sandy River Railroad Museum article they found an area of the coach that had ORIGINAL green paint on it.  The area is the wood found directly behind the brass bell cord sleeves found at the end of the cars above the doors.  This color was the color applied at the Laconia car works.  The brass bell cord sleeve was applied later. The article states that the original color is indeed best matched to Floquil's "Brunswick Green."  Chris McChesney

Answer Two-foot coaches, in general, were maintained better and the Red Lead is visible in many SR&RL and B&H coach shots even immediately after abandonment (including the earliest Kodachrome postcards series of the Edaville fleet).  If you own one of these postcards of the Rangeley, you will notice that the car sides have been restored and repainted but the Red Lead on the tin roof was left alone.  There are dents and areas of bare metal seen in many places on this ORIGINAL roof.  Later, this roof was painted by Edaville in I believe black. Chris McChesney

Modeling Red Oxide

Red Lead is similar to the SR&RL "Freight Car Red" but is absolutely flat.  This red is not like Floquil's "Boxcar Red".  Floquil's boxcar red is way too brown and is a match for D&RGW's boxcar red.  I use Floquil's "Oxide Red" (sometimes cut with white for older cars) for roofs. Chris McChesney

 Boxcar color  - Freight

The SR&RL requisition sheets state, Freight Car Red. Nothing is more accurate than the real thing and since I’ve found a good piece of existing paint, un-weathered, I have been able to come up with a formula that I feel, as well as others who have seen it, is 98% accurate.

You will need the following paints: Floquil Polly S Metal Primer, Floquil Polly S Roof Red and Model Masters (Acrylic Enamel) Desert Sand. The formula is as follows: Three parts Metal Primer, two parts (heavy) Roof Red and a touch of Desert Sand. This will get you an almost perfect colour match. For a slightly weathered colour, add a touch of Model Masters Flat White.

SR&RL freight cars were lettered with White Lead.  excerpt from Brian Carters page information provided by Gary Kohler, take link for more details

The closest out of the bottle color I have found is ATSF Mineral Brown. G Kohler 12/12/12 MaineOn2

Cream/Dairy car information – Freight

SRRR #19 was lettered CREAM CAR. The only photos I have (or have seen) of #21 show it numbered only #21 on each side of door. No cream car, no dairy car, no milk car, no dairy/milk ice cream car.

Numbers 19 and 21 had full length door stops to allow running with doors open. It is not clear if 19 had an end door, but many early cars did. Number 21 became SR&RL 59 and still exists today.  Number 21 had ladders on sides — for some reason. HOWEVER, it did retain this feature on the SR&RL (as number 59) until the early 1920s. This was later changes to conform to standard SR&RL practice.

What is unique about 21/59 is that it had ladders androof platforms on both ends of the car sides.  However, the later photos showing thiscar 21 numbered as 59 indicate that the extra ladders and roofplatforms were removed at some point so it looks like any otherboxcar. Jim red_gate_rover

SR&RL #145 was lettered DAIRY PRODUCTS centered top/bottom, left/right to the right of the door.  Number 145 did not have an end door. All cars had standard boxcar doors, no ice hatches, roof ventilators, chimneys, etc.  Gary Kohler response on HOn30 group

Roof Covering- Freight

A note on the roof coverings. All the documentation on equipment I have, or have seen, mentions tin roofs. This includes, loco, passenger and freight cars, etc., etc. The exception is the rail autos/buses.  G Kohler HOn30 response

SR&RL used tin for boxcar roof covering.  There is an excellent article by Mark Hall on “Building Metal (Tin) Boxcar Roofs” in M2FQ Vol 3-1, 1997, and another by Gary Kohler on rusted tin roofs in M2FQ Vol 47 1995.

 B&SR tank car color. - Freight

The B&SR tank cars were NEVER painted black!  The earliest known photo (1905) clearly shows gray or silver tank on a standard flat car (the B&SR used Princes Brown (Red Oxide my guess)).  All later photos, including about a half a dozen color images clearly show silver/gray tanks with the SOCONY in black.  The Moody photo in question that has caused everyone to jump on the “black” band wagon was taken in shadow and appears black due to all the rust! Color photos taken the same year show silver/gray tanks.    Gary Kohler

This article is being discounted as erroneous about the black tank color?   Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette Sept/Oct 1979 Peter Barney did an article on Painting Two-Foot Gauge Cars. One interesting point Barney says B&H tank Cars were “Tank” Flat car box red with natural wood decking. Tank “At first painted black with white lettering, and white ends with black lettering. Later tanks were off-white to gray with black lettering. By the end of the railroad the tanks had no lettering.”   Walter Orloff

It is as with most things, publish, and new information will come to light contradicting your research. The listing is not meant as negative reflection on the great work Peter has done for the Maine Two Footers. 

WW&F #6  Baggage/Mail/Smoker painting

Question: Anyone have the best color to paint this car circa 1915? The best I can find is coach green (any idea on that color) to freight car red. Also what color is chrome yellow? Thanks, Paul Buhrke

This is an interesting question and I’ve thought about the answer for some time, too… But seriously: Unfortunately, I haven’t yet seen a photo of this car from that era. Apparently the noted 2-ft.-authorities also don’t have one either. The following notes come right out of memory as my 2-ft.-stuff is already packed for an upcoming move.

What I have is a contact print from the original glass plate taken at the J&S plant. On this one, the car seems to be very dark. I believe this color was called pullman green. I think somebody (Gary K.?) once described it as a mix between dark green and black. Of course the fancy original lettering was there.

After Carson Peck bought the WW&F in 1906 it has been written that the passenger cars received a fresh coat of green paint. Once again, I haven’t seen any photos of the combine from that time, but there is one of matching coach “Vassalboro” (originally #5), showing it lettered as “WW&F _RY_” and numbered as “12”, thus dating the photo post-1906/7.

On this photo, the coach body is painted in a lighter color. This can’t be a negative or print deterioration, as the image also shows an engine tank, and this one is clearly painted in a very dark (probably black) color. The roof color can’t be determined easily, but is very light.   Contrary to the original appearance (where the clerestory window area was painted dark), roof and clerestory window area are painted the same color (!). It seems to be much lighter than the roof red found on the coach at the WW&F Museum (although I don’t know how close this is towards the original color). Therefore, I seriously believe the roof area might have been painted silver or aluminum…   I think the photos showing the Peck inspection train (taken around 1907?) support this.

The described photo (I think it has at least been published in Peter Barney’s WW&F volume) may also fit in your timeframe because the eastern (riverside) stall of the Wiscasset engine house had already received its rear doors (they weren’t in place when the building was built around 1906).

The statements of this car being painted (some sort of) yellow or freight car red belong IMO to later eras: When a group of railfans visited Albion around 1930 (photos are in the Sirman collection), #6 was painted in a noticeable lighter color than following passenger/RPO-combine 7. It seems to be a bit too light for being freight car red. This leads me to the conclusion that at that time #6 was just primed and put back into service. Compared to primer colors here in Germany, this could explain the yellow.

Towards the end of operations, #6 seems to have received a fresh coat of freight car red paint. There is a color slide of the overturned car bodies in Wiscasset’s upper yard showing this clearly.   Of course, I’m always interested in discussing other opinions. Wolf-Jobst Siedler 

SR&RL 17 & 18 ex SRRR 5 & 6

Sandy River Railroad Museum article they found an area of the coach that had ORIGINAL green paint on it.  The area is the wood found directly behind the brass bell cord sleeves found at the end of the cars above the doors.  This color was the color applied at the Laconia car works.  The brass bell cord sleeve was applied later.  The article states that the original color is indeed best matched to Floquil's "Brunswick Green." Chris McChesney

Non-revenue Equipment

Caboose - Non-revenue equipment

  • ·         Cabooses had tin roofs.

The SR&RL, as well as all Maine 2-foot roads, used tin for roof coverings. Caboose 556 (Phillips, ME) still has its original tin roof. The roofs were all painted red lead. Tarpaper would not stand up in the severe Maine winters.   Gary Kohler  

Cabooses had red trucks

Underbodies WERE NOT painted. Metal parts may have been, but I have not found proof. It appears that trucks were painted red when new. Gary Kohler  

Internal green color

A very good approximation of the light green used inside engine cabs and cabooses on the Maine two-footers is Polly Scale No. 505254 Br. Sky (Type S).   Wesley J. Ewell  

 

 

SRCS O scale kits list – a Work In Progress

Sandy River Car Shops kits

srcswn01a

srcswm02a

Two views of Terry Smith’s model of the Wiscasset station at Week’s Mills built from an SRCS kit, with modifications.

Sandy River Car Shops is the brand name, frequently reduced to SRCS by those in the know, chosen by Peter Barney to market a wide range of craftsman style kits, not only in On2 but also HOn2 and Sn2, of Maine Two Foot Railroad items. The line was started sometime in the 1970’s (confirmation required) and some items are still available on an occasional basis from Steven Boothroyd of Cranberry Junction Hobbies.

The line included both a standard range of products such as regular rolling and structure kits and other items produced as limited editions.

For many On2 modellers, SRCS kits provided an introduction to and the backbone of their Maine On2 modelling.

We hope that our readers will help to develop and flesh out this post advising us of items not shown on our list and even better sending us photographs of their completed kits to illustrate the extensive range available.

srcswf30301b

A part built view of a typical SRCS boxcar, in this case a WW&FR 28 foot boxcar from the 67 series, showing the familiar SRCS white box used for most kits plus the stripwood and hardware still to be fitted.

SRCS Kits list Revision date: 24-May-2014

SRCS BB A Billerica & Bedford boxcar “A”…

SRCS BSR 8 Bridgton & Saco River flatcar 8
SRCS BSR 17 Bridgton & Saco River flatcar 17
SRCS BSR 37 Bridgton & Saco River lowside flatcar (gondola) 37
SRCS BSR 44 Bridgton & Saco River flatcar 44
SRCS BSR 56 Bridgton & Saco River 28′ boxcar 56
SRCS BSR 65 Bridgton & Saco River 30′ boxcar 65
SRCS BSR 73 Bridgton & Saco River 34′ boxcar 73

SRCS FM 21 Franklin & Megantic boxcar 21

SRCS KC 6 Kennebec Central flanger/plow 6
SRCS KC 15 Kennebec Central flatcar 15
SRCS KC 21 Kennebec Central boxcar 21

SRCS M 5 Monson boxcar 5
SRCS M 13 Monson flatcar 13

SRCS SR A Sandy River boxcar A
SRCS SR 1 Sandy River caboose 1
SRCS SR 5 Sandy River boxcar 5

SRCS SRRL 55 SR&RL 24′ boxcar 55
SRCS SRRL 59 SR&RL milk boxcar 59
SRCS SRRL 68 SR&RL boxcar 68
SRCS SRRL 70 SR&RL boxcar 70
SRCS SRRL 85 SR&RL boxcar 85
SRCS SRRL 99 SR&RL boxcar 99

SRCS SRRL 107 SR&RL boxcar 107
SRCS SRRL 147 SR&RL boxcar 147
SRCS SRRL 201 SR&RL flatcar 201
SRCS SRRL 213 SR&RL 28′ pulpwood car 213

SRCS SRRL 215 SR&RL pulpwood car 215
SRCS SRRL 216 SR&RL flatcar 216
SRCS SRRL 216-2 x SR&RL flatcars 216 & 413
SRCS SRRL 224 SR&RL 28′ flatcar 224
SRCS SRRL 224-2 SR&RL flatcars 224 & 239

SRCS SRRL 240-2 SR&RL pulp cars 213 & 240
SRCS SRRL 239 SR&RL flatcar 239
SRCS SRRL 302 SR&RL flatcar 302
SRCS SRRL 326 SR&RL pulpwood car 326
SRCS SRRL 326-2 SR&RL pulp cars 326 & 383
SRCS SRRL 383 SR&RL pulpwood car 383
SRCS SRRL 413 SR&RL flatcar 413
SRCS SRRL 420 SR&RL pulpwood 420
SRCS SRRL 430 SR&RL coal car 430
SRCS SRRL 430-2 SR&RL coal cars
SRCS SRRL 490 SR&RL stock car 490
SRCS SRRL 501 SR&RL Flanger 501
SRCS SRRL 504 SR&RL Flanger 504
SRCS SRRL 505/6 SR&RL Flanger 505/6
SRCS SRRL 513 SR&RL snowplow 513
SRCS SRRL 514 SR&RL snowplow 514
SRCS SRRL 515 SR&RL snowplow 515
SRCS SRRL 551 SR&RL Caboose 551
SRCS SRRL 552 SR&RL Caboose 552
SRCS SRRL 553 SR&RL Caboose 553
SRCS SRRL 555 SR&RL caboose 555
SRCS SRRL 561 SR&RL work car 561
SRCS SRRL 570 SR&RL work car 570

srcsbox01a

srcsw31201a

Two pictures showing boxcars assembled from SRCS kits prior to painting, allowing the various pieces and added detail to be seen more clearly.

Top view shows a B&SR 30 foot boxcar and a Wiscasset 28 foot boxcar behind a Portland Products F&M #1 locomotive. The bottom view shows a WW&FR 312 boxcar with the raised roof.

SRCS WWF 10/29 W&Q/WW&F 28′ flatcar
SRCS WWF 41 WW&F 28′ boxcar 41
SRCS WWF 42 WW&F flatcar 42
SRCS WWF 50 W&Q/WW&F 30′ flatcar 50
SRCS WWF TCDA WW&F Turner Centre reefer
SRCS WWF 67 WW&F/FCC 30′ boxcar 67
SRCS WWF 81 WW&F boxcar 81
SRCS WWF 101 WW&F 30′ Flatcar 101
SRCS WWF 116 WW&F flatcar 116
SRCS WWF 201 WW&F Flanger 201
SRCS WWF 202 WW&F Flanger 202
SRCS WWF 301 WW&F Caboose 301
SRCS WWF 303 WW&F waycar 303
SRCS WWF 312 WW&F 28′ boxcar 312
SRCS WWF 503 WW&F boxcar 503

srcsw50301b

A Wiscasset 503 28 foot boxcar built from an SRCS kit by Terry Smith.

SRCS B 1 SR&RL Madrid freight house
SRCS B 2 SR&RL Sanders Station
SRCS B 3 WW&F Cooper’s Mills Water tank
SRCS B 4 WW&F Maintenance Shed
SRCS B 5 SR&RL Strong Creamery
SRCS B 6 SR&RL Sanders Water tank
SRCS B 7 SR&RL Boxcar Storage Shed at Phillips
SRCS B 8 WW&F Weeks Mills Station
SRCS B 9 WW&F Weeks Mills Freight House
SRCS B 10 SR&RL Strong Station
SRCS B 11 WW&F Weeks Mills Water tank
SRCS B 12
SRCS B 13 SR&RL Strong Freight House
SRCS B 14 WW&F Alna Center Depot
SRCS B 15 SR&RL Maintenance Sheds
SRCS B 16 Kennebec Central Engine house
SRCS B 17 SR&RL Phillips Water crane
SRCS B 18 SR&RL Farmington Water crane
SRCS B 19 WW&F Wiscasset Water crane with staircase
SRCS B 20 WW&F Albion Engine house
SRCS B 21 WW&F Albion Water Tank
SRCS B 22
SRCS B 23 SR&RL Strong Engine house
SRCS B 24
SRCS B 25 SR&RL Strong Coal Shed

srcssr51303a

srcssr51304a

Two views of SR&RL Snowplow # 513 built from an SRCS kit by Terry Smith.

 

 

 

Ron King’s SR&RL Layout

Update: 07-06-2014: Ron has added a video to his blog, showing a helicopter tour of the 255 Oops! make that 455 (!!!) foot run from Farmington to Rangeley and Marbles. That’s over four scale miles, so it is well worth a visit to his blog to view!

Ron is building an On2 layout modelling the SR&RL in the fall of 1919. The layout will be on two levels and is housed in a dedicated second floor room that is about 25 feet wide and 100 feet long giving a floor space of about 2,400 square feet.

The minimum radius on the layout is 48” and will use #8 turnouts. Ron intends to use Precision Scale flex track.

Read more about Ron’s ambitious plans on his blog at http://srrllayout.blogspot.com or use the link in the sidebar on the right.

We are one!

it was a year ago that we made our first public disclosure of this blog, so we are counting today as the first “official” birthday.

We hope that our regular visitors have enjoyed the first year, as we have grown from the 36 posts available a year ago to the 110+ currently available.

Keep visiting or sign up as a follower, there is still a lot more to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Want bigger pictures?

Portland Products First Edition Catalog               Blog Revision Date 10-01-2014

You can view larger images by clicking on the picture in the blog. You can use your browser back arrow to come back to the blog.

Note that both Portland Products and Coastal Engineering are no longer trading, and no longer at the addresses and phone numbers shown in this posting.